Showing posts with label 208:2 M2. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 208:2 M2. Show all posts

Monday, 27 December 2010

Botanical Gardnes - Using the Top Ten Tips

Prior to going to the Botanical Gardens with Tony, I did some research on the internet to ensure that I got the best from my time there. However, prior to going the weather turned wintry and we enjoyed an element of snow. Add to this the fact that I was trying to compliment my images of Autumn for my portfolio and the opportunity to take appropriate images became more and more of a challenge.

However, using the tips that I had researched I took numerous images of plants and leaves and tried to apply the techniques reviewed.

Take Pictures from Different angles
ISO 200: f/10: 1/20: lens 18-55mm
ISO 200: f/10: 1/40: lens 18-55mm
These two pictures were taken from two completely different angles. The image on the left gives a much greater depth of field, as the leaves in the background create perspective. However, you lose the full impact of the leaves in the image on the right. In this instance therefore, I have chosen the image on the right as part of my final selection, although I have modified the final image slightly in Photoshop.

Use a good Quality Tripod
ISO 200: f/10: 1/40: lens 18-55mm
To take this shot I had to really lower my camera on the tripod and stand back. The light is not brilliant, but I had to stand away from the leaf, in order to shed as  much light onto the subject as possible. Using my remote trigger, I took the image as seen.


Get Close to the Image, Use a Macro Lens and A remote trigger to reduce camera shake.

ISO 100: f/5: 1/40: lens 18:55mm with 4 x Magnifier

In this image I adopted the advice as above. Using the magnifying filters and the tripod I was able to get very close to the subject.  Add to this the wireless trigger and I was able to close-up images with the minimum of movement.

ISO 100:  f/5: 1/80: lens 18-55mm with 4 x Magnifier
Use Backgrounds for constant colour: Use the smallest aperture size available
I got very close to these seeds and used the widest aperture available given the light conditions. Hence the seeds themselves are very clear, but the background is completely blown out. The clarity of the sed heads is exaggerated by the almost non-nonsensical background which is just a blur of colours with no detail whatsoever. Whilst this will not sit in my final portfolio, I do really like this image.

Friday, 26 November 2010

10 Tips for Taking Flower Photographs

I wanted to do some more research into getting the best out of mine an Tone's visit to the Botanical Gardens in Birmingham, tomorrow. So I have been researching the internet and came up the above named webpage. (http://gardenerstips.co.uk/blog/flowers/10-tips-for-taking-flower-photos/).

1 - Shoot from different angles.
As with most photography, it is recommended that you think about taking the images from different angles. Rather than simply taking them looking down on them, perhaps think about getting down and dirty, taking them from the same height as they are, or even lower, to gain a better sens of perspective.

Taken from above
Taken from the same level as the flower











2. Shoot with the smallest aperture that you lens will allow.
We know this, but it is useful to have it reaffirmed. This will enable me to focus on the flower itself and to blur out the background as much as possible.
3. Try a Macro Lens for a really close shot
Well as neither of us has a macro lens, that will be a challenge. However, Tony has managed ot get hold of some lens 'magnifiers' which screw onto the end of a58mm lens, that should help and I will be looking to 'borrow' them at some stage.
4. Use a good quality tripod
I have every intention of taking my tripod, which is more than up to the task. Working up close , we need to take every effort to reduce camera shake and this is the first step.
5. Other tips to reduce camera shake
a)  It is recommended that if you cannot get your tripod out then take a mono pod (Tone's got one of those)
b) Use a remote trigger. - sorted!
c) Take multiple shots, as the slightest movement could cause you to be out of focus and the more you take the more chance of getting that perfect image - not sure I wholeheartedly agree with the sentiment, but the concept is sound.
6. Canon filter
Well we can only work with what we have, so this may not happen!
7. When to take the best shots
Too much sunlight can blow out the image. You often get better results when the sky is slight overcast as this allows the real colours of the flowers to really come out.
8. The Rain Effect
After it has rained, flowers collect drops of water. This creates an extra romance and beauty to floral photography. However, as it is unlikely to rain tomorrow (it is more likely to snow) we will be taking a water vaporizer to create the same effect.
9. Use backgrounds for Constant Colour
A solid background helps avoid distracting backgrounds. Black often works very well, especially for white, light coloured flowers. We will be more relying on a small aperture as it is unlikely that we will be able to get out bits of card or other to drop behind flower - but it may be worth taking something  - just in case.
10. Wind
Trying to hold stem of flower can work. If you have an SLR set a high shutter speed 1/ 125 will help capture and freeze any blowing wind.
What they are getting at here is that if there is a wind, you need to try to capture the wind effect without blurring the image - we'll see what happens tomorrow then!

Thursday, 25 November 2010

Compare and Contrast - Bill Atkinson

Having reviewd Bills work, this is exactly the kind of images that I was trying to recreate with my 'Autumn ' series, as previously posted and I have inserted one of them below to compare and contrast.
my vision was to take brightly coloured leaves against copper sulphate blue skies, to exaggerate and highlight the colours in those leaves.

Catching the right light is essential so I made sure that we had clear skies and plenty of sun, then I set off into Hopwas woods (as usual with dog running around). I took a number of images, as previously displayed and have inserted one of them below to contrast with the an image from Bill's portfolio.

ISO 100: f 9: 1/200: lens 55-200mm                     
I have not undertaken any post production work on my image, but the concept is very similar. Golden leaves against a blue sky. Clearly however, I have focused on a smaller section of the tree, largely due to the peripheral surroundings, which would not have leant themselves to taking a more 'distant' shot.

Friday, 15 October 2010

The Golden Section

The Golden Section is a rule relating to composition which hails from the twelfth century. An Italian mathematician who was famous for creating a number sequence which starts with 0,1. By adding the second number to the first in the sequence and then dividing that second number by the previous you end up returning to Phi. 

0,1,1,2,3,5,8,13,21,34,55,89........
Superimposed on the images below it can be seen how this rule is applied ......